Q: I've never actually pitched a tent before, or gone camping, or been outside, or slept in the dark. Can I do it?
A: If cold wet beavers can suck down a few backcountry weeds and build a dam, you can pitch a tent, safely occupy a campsite, and snooze under the stars -- see the Outdoor SAFETY page (link below) for some good background on the carefulness aspects. Also check our Gear 101 page for other tips on tent use, pack selection, product components and construction, and other gear related matters. We try to offer easy-to-use tents that are good values in quality, size, and design -- after a little practice most of the family models can be erected by 2 adults in 15-20 minutes on average, plus stake time. We suggest that before you first go out with the tent or other gear, you inspect it carefully, make sure you have all the parts, seal the seams (even if factory sealed, some extra doesn't hurt -- and while the tent is new and clean), and practice with it in the back yard (to limit unexpected frustration at the camp site). All tents include set-up instructions, and we're usually reachable for questions, so be bold -- do it a few times, and you'll wonder what ever kept you out of the woods in the first place!
Q: Our pet poodle, Vichy Swab, loves to go tailgating with us, but alas her nasty little Swiss poodle paws keep popping holes in the floor of the Zuck's brand camping tent we bought out of the back of some guy's 1967 Citroen retired Canadian mail van late one night in a closed commercial truck weigh station off of far, far north I-95 last October. What to do, what to do?
A: First, try to get out of Bedford Falls a little more often.
Then, get a good camping portable screen house, and let Bowser rest therein while you relish the tent. And be sure to bring plenty of dog snacks -- and a campside scooper -- for all's enjoyment!
Can't swing a new screen tent just now? Some light weight camping tarps will go a long way in protecting a tent floor, from rocks, sticks, dog peds, kid goop -- 2 suggested (1 beneath, 1 inside) for max protection and easy after-stay clean-up (pick it up, shake it out, done). Check size needs and tarp specs carefully before ordering!
Hint: Woods sometimes have many nippy ticks -- a pet collar is useful, on the pet. We also suggest a squeeze bottle of DE bug dust for the camp site -- it is non-toxic except to the insect pests, is cheap, and can also be used around the home (read label instructions of course). You might also consider a cedar dog bed, for both camp & cabin, to keep the suckers away from Fido. Have a happy!
Q: When checking the tent models, I keep reading about the 'fly' -- should I look down?
A: No, look up. The 'fly' or 'roof fly' or 'rain fly' is the separate sheet of waterproofed fabric that covers the main tent body (in most modern double-wall tent designs). The fly may just cover a central part of the roof, or it may extend all the way to the ground. It may incorporate an integral vestibule or annex by the tent door(s), or even a porch-style awning on some family models. In any case, it is likely to be somewhat heavier than the rest of the tent, as the fly takes the most abuse over time from UV light, winds, rains, birds, trees -- we do suggest you purchase 1 or 2 extra flies when you first get the new tent (or soon after), for likely replacement needs down the road. (Very happy when a model is discontinued and parts become scarce.) Flies need to be re-treated/sealed for waterproofness every so often, and like the rest of the tent should be stored clean and dry. In use you won't always need it of course -- in less humid climes with little rain it is fun to sometimes go fly-less, for increased ventilation, and nighttime star-gazing on models with sheer ceiling material; note that removing the fly will decrease UV protection to both fabrics and skin considerably. Most fly sheets also include extra sewn-on web loops or metal rings, for attaching guy-out lines in windy conditions. We suggest you get some good weather-proof cord (available at most sports or hardware stores) and heavy-duty stakes to augment the basic tent package, and use them if there's any chance of strong gusts. Our occasional (and usually stupidly abusive) outside store demos have almost always employed these vital extras, and they really can make the difference between a solid shelter and a large loose tumbleweed-type tent. In severe situations only low profile, expedition-grade tents will work -- we sell some of those too! If in doubt, guy it out!
We're talking tents here, not tornado shelters. Keep track of the weather before and during your trip, use proper gear for the likely conditions, and be realistic about your overall safety needs and the ability of your equipment and fellow campers. Read the Outdoor SAFETY stuff before any use/purchase.
And so the fly. Just another happy Rudy Rondo camping thing to share!
Q: Will my paddle float?
A: Yes, at least for a few swell moments; however, when your canoe or kayak is moving at 4 MPH, and your dropped paddle or oar is zipping along at say 87 MPH (or vice-versa), the WILL MY PADDLE FLOAT? question becomes rather mootish. Best to always carry a spare (i.e., 2 paddlers then 3 paddles, 1 paddler then 2 paddles) in event of loss or breakage. After CAN I BORROW YOUR BASS BOAT? this is the most common question at our rustic rural retail store.
Q: Don't all tents leak?
A: A well designed & constructed, properly sealed, erected, and well cared for tent should not leak under normal use -- including moderate rain and wind. A cheap generic tent with poor fabrics and design, slack construction, poor care, and weak coating, on the other hand, may always be a dampernik. Folks often mistake condensation from improper ventilation as leak action. Water (and small rocks and other kicked stuff) can also be drawn near main corner and floor seams by a ground tarp that extends too far beyond the floor/roof fly eaves (smaller is better). All fabrics that are originally waterproofed (coated, seam sealed) should be re-juiced every few years, at the least. Pitching a poly/nylon tent in the shade (under a big cheap tarp) helps reduce UV problems to the fabric and will prolong tent life. Canvas models when new are best wetted down and allowed to shrink some (2-3 percent usually) to naturally tighten the seams -- pitch canvas LOOSELY at first to prevent damage to corners and other major stress points. Most active tents need seam sealer renewals from time to time, and can be treated with a number of good over-the-counter products to repel stains and water. We advise that when the tent is first new and clean, set it up and carefully coat (seam seal) the main fabric seams and canopy corners (most kits include a dauber bottle of sealer -- also available in most department and outdoor stores pretty cheap), even if factory sealed -- and do it annually thereafter. DO NOT USE BLEACH or any other strong chemical or abrasive on the tent (say to cut mildew) -- that will probably make matters much worse. Hand wash with a mild soap -- Ivory Snow is OK -- to attack mildew (area washed will have to be re-treated to re-waterproof). Oh, this just in... Termites will chew cotton canvas (we've seen it) -- some DE bug dust (use as directed) under the floor/atop the ground tarp is smart in extended set-ups. Keeping the tent clean and storing DRY (away from excessive heat and nesting animules), with proper regular seam sealing, is decent maintenance, along with limited direct UV overexposures. See the Gear 101 page for other pre-purchase/use tips of merit.
With easy regular care, your new tent should last for many years of happy, low hassle, high mileage fun outdoor adventures!
Learn, Choose, Prepare & Enjoy!
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$9.50 flat rate shipping & handling per U.S. street address, insured FOB origin. [AR resident purchases + tax, store pick-up Ex Works by appointment after payment.] In-stock orders normally arrive in 3 to 8 days. Our shipping days are Tuesday and Thursday before noon Central Time; weekend orders will be processed for Tuesday shipment, excluding holidays -- see e-mail for tracking updates. Some items ship via Priority Mail. See FYI for AK & HI, APO, FPO options.
Like to take our custom Yahoo! Shopping secure e-Cart for a little test drive before ordering? We've set up a Test Order page just for that -- anything submitted using the test mode will not be processed, so feel free to try it out (select Test Order as payment method) before you move on to the real deal. Other questions? Send a message via our Contact form (link up left), and we'll reply ASAP... Enjoy!
- Refunds: Closeouts, inflatables, safety gear, sleeping bags and similar personal products, over-sized shipments, anything in consumer use, PayPal and Google Checkout purchases, some other items and specific categories are non-returnable (i.e., no refund or exchange, use manufacturer limited warranty for any subsequent parts or service); see Returns Policy details before ordering.
- The fabric shelters we sell are for light to moderate duty, not season-long pitching, extreme weather, unattended performance, or permanent installation. Tent & pack fabric sewn seams require user sealing before use, even most models with factory coating. See our Gear 101 page for other common gear care & use tips before purchase.
- Suggested max packed weight for internal frame backpacks is 30 lbs. If you intend to haul more, an external frame pack with a heavier capacity is advised. Check with local Scout troops for tips on backpack sizes and features.
- Max dims and packed sizes are not adjusted for variables in set-up, heat, humidity, air inflation, late factory spec changes, and/or handling, and may not always reflect use-able space. Illustrations not to scale.
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